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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.